What is the preferred method for connecting a snow anchor to a climbing rope when using a friction hitch?

The preferred method for connecting a snow anchor to a climbing rope when using a friction hitch involves placing the friction hitch between the crevasse and the second teammate. This positioning ensures that any load or tension created during a rescue effort is effectively managed. By placing the friction hitch in this manner, it allows for a rapid adjustment of tension and provides a secure point for managing the rope system associated with hauling or lowering a teammate.

This method is particularly important in rescue situations, as it allows the second teammate to maintain control of their position while also providing support to the anchor system. It optimizes safety and efficiency in potentially precarious situations, such as during a crevasse rescue.

On the other hand, attaching the friction hitch above the climber can increase the risk of the climber falling further in case of a slip or a sudden load. Connecting it directly to the load harness might compromise stability or create unnecessary strain on the harness system. Using only a trucker’s hitch does not provide the necessary adjustability or safety features that a friction hitch offers, particularly in dynamic rescue scenarios.