What is the preferred type of anchor for steep ice falls?

The preferred type of anchor for steep ice falls is the Abalakov (V-thread) anchor. This type of anchor is particularly effective in icy conditions because it utilizes existing ice as the foundation for the anchor. The Abalakov anchor is created by drilling two holes in the ice, which are then connected by a horizontal groove, allowing for a secure placement of a cord or a carabiner.

In the context of steep ice falls, the reliability and strength of an anchor are crucial due to the potential for dynamic forces that may arise during a fall or while climbing. The Abalakov anchor offers several advantages in this regard. It provides a solid hold in the ice itself, reducing the risk of failure compared to surface-based anchors that may not penetrate deeply enough or may be compromised by thawing conditions.

Additionally, the Abalakov anchor is discreet and minimizes environmental impact, which is an important consideration in pristine ice climbing areas. It can be easily removed with minimal disturbance to the surrounding ice, preserving the area for other climbers. This method is not only practical but also aligns with the principles of Leave No Trace ethics practiced in climbing communities.

Other types of anchors, such as dead man anchors and ice fluke anchors, can have limitations depending on