What should be the primary consideration for an ice screw anchor?

The primary consideration for an ice screw anchor is the quality of the ice. When establishing an anchor in an ice climbing or rescue scenario, the bond and integrity of the ice are crucial. High-quality ice is clear, solid, and free from bubbles or fractures, which maximizes the strength of the anchor. If the ice is of poor quality—such as being brittle, soft, or having inclusions—it can lead to insufficient anchoring strength and increased risk of failure.

While the other factors, such as load type, ice thickness, and temperature, are important considerations in specific contexts, they all relate back to the fundamental requirement of an anchor: it must be placed in strong, reliable material. High-quality ice provides the necessary structural support to accommodate the forces exerted on the anchor during use, making it the foremost factor in ensuring safety and stability in ice climbing or rescue operations.